Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Good Chow #2


Japanese comfort food. What is it? Well, as exemplified at the Sunshine Café, a small but not tiny one-room eatery in Andersonville, it is large bowls of delicious donburi, soba, udon, and much more served in hearty portions. What is it not? It is not sushi (not usually, at least), and it is far from expensive.
I've been coming to this place for years. Usually stuff myself with a friend on several appetizers (shumai, potato croquette, tsukemono) and then a main course and end up being presented a bill of around thirty dollars. Just a great value.
And to top it all off, Sunshine is BYOB. I recommend pilsners, pale ales, most white wines (but find Sancerres, pinot gris, and Southern Rhone blends to pair best). Or if you’d prefer red, as I often do, stick with something light and simple: pinot noir or cabernet franc, especially the latter from either the Loire Valley or the Finger Lakes; or maybe a syrah if you plan on getting a pork dish, such as the always flavorful katsu don (pictured above).
And make sure to try the specials, such as the rainbow trout. They never disappoint.
Is it fine dining? A far cry (though the service is quite good). But that’s the point: to eat, drink, and relax, to make the taste buds smile while using whichever damn utensil you prefer.

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